Totally free Strategy: Mail Truck Financial institution
Free Woodworking Program: Mail Truck Financial institution
Construct this nostalgic Mail Truck Bank and capture the imagination of a kid! This easy-to-create project incorporates a real sound brass mailbox door to commemorate the stalwart little truck that kept America’s mail moving in the course of the 1920s.
This free of charge undertaking program is courtesy of Rockler Woodworking & Hardware .
The first phase is to download the totally free task sheet. The venture sheet contains the identical stage-by-phase instructions you see beneath along with full-shade scaled drawings, dimensioned cutting patterns, and illustrations displaying the proper assembly of the pieces. Click the hyperlink beneath to download the free of charge venture sheet in PDF format.
Click Right here For Free Project Sheet
This exploded vew of the undertaking is an illustration of the in depth illustrations you will find on the free of charge task sheet accessible for download at the hyperlink over. Along with stage-by-stage guidelines and complete-colour illustrations, you will also acquire scaled patterns you can use for cutting and shaping the a variety of pieces for this undertaking.
The following resources are advisable for this venture:
Random Orbit Sander
Different Hand Resources
– Strong brass mailbox door
– two-3/four” spoked wheels
– 1/2″ headlights
– one/8″ dowel
– #4 x three/8″ flathead wood screws
– #eight x 1-one/4″ flathead wood screws
– 5/16″ i.d. flat washers
Phase one.Reduce the fenders and sides to dimension as indicated in Bill of Components. We recommend making use of cherry, although the truck seems to be excellent in walnut, as well. Stack lower these pieces with double-faced tape, then sand surfaces to lines.
Phase two. Transfer the total-sized Window pattern from the downloadable task sheet (see hyperlink above) to the top encounter of the stacked sides. Scrollsaw the window to form. Dado the inside encounter of every single side exactly where shown on the Side drawing. Reset the fence, and reduce a three/8″ wide rabbet to the exact same depth along the inside bottom edge of the two sides. Finish sand each faces of the sides. Now transfer the complete size fender pattern from the venture sheet to the stacked fender pieces. Reduce to size, sand to form. Then, glue and clamp a fender to every outside face, aligning the ends of the components. Make positive you have the fenders oriented accurately (bigger wheel nicely forward). Refer to the project sheet illustrations for suitable placement and alignment of components prior to gluing. Right after glue has dried, sand the fenders flush with the contoured finish of the sides.
Stage 3. Lower the floorboard and cab wall to dimension. To reduce wood movement problems, minimize the cab wall with the grain running horizontally. Finish sand floorboard and cab wall. Dry assemble these two elements with the sides, and check out for match (seat the cab wall in the dadoes and the floorboard in the rabbet). Now glue and assemble the components. Verify for squareness, then clamp.
Step 1. Reduce hood from two” thick stock. Move your tablesaw rip fence to the side of the blade opposite its route of tilt, then set it two-1/8″ from the blade.Tilt the blade to 45º, and chamfer one particular of the prime edges of the hood blank. Turn the blank end for finish, and chamfer the other top edge. Crosscut a 23/four” long hood from the blank. Trace 1 finish of hood onto five/sixteen” thick contrasting stock (we utilized a scrap of rosewood).
Phase 2. Bandsaw the radiator to form. Adhere radiator to the front finish of the hood using double-faced tape, then sand it flush with the hood on all edges. Eliminate the radiator from the hood. Utilizing a marking gauge, scratch a line three/eight” in from all edges of the radiator. Scrollsaw inside the line to get rid of the waste. File to the line.
Step 3. Grille is a piece of fiberglass display patch.Make a paper template, hold/tape to screen and minimize to size. Be careful to use a sharp scissors, or the “fabric” will fray.
Stage four. Drill holes in the hood for the steering-wheel column and headlights (see Hood drawing). Lay out a centered dowel hole on each and every headlight. Clamp each and every 1 into a handscrew clamp laid flat on the drill press table, set the depth end, and drill a 1/8″ hole three/8″ deep. Glue the steering wheel to the column, then glue the column into its hole. Reduce two three/4″ lengths of one/8″ dowel, and glue 1 into every single headlight. Glue the dowels into the hood, and degree the headlights.
Step 1. To make the seat parts, lower a twelve” strip of 1/4″ x one” stock. We chose cherry, but walnut functions effectively also. Reduce a four” strip from the blank, and set it aside for the seat base. Rout a 1/8″ roundover along a single edge of the remaining blank, and use it for the seat bench and back.
Stage two. Measure the cab interior, then minimize the three seat elements 1/eight” too lengthy. Utilizing a stopblock on your miter-gauge extension, trim the components to fit snugly. Up coming, glue the seat base to the bench and the bench to the back exactly where proven on the Seat Assembly drawing. Apply glue to the cab wall and to the bottom edge of the seat base, then maneuver the assembled seat into position without smearing the glue.
Stage 3. Cut every single bumper to dimension (we utilised rosewood), then bandsaw a three/eight” x 3/4″ notch in the back edge at every finish in which proven on the Bumper drawing. Lay out a 1″ partial radius on each end of the front edge, then sand these radii to the line. Drill two 1/16″ shank holes through every bumper. Center and glue a bumper to each end of the floorboard. Utilizing the shank holes as guides, drill pilot holes into the floorboard. Now, drive 1-1/four” brads, set them, and fill the holes.
Step 4. Crosscut two four” prolonged axle blocks. On 1 finish of the blocks, locate and mark a point 3/8″ from one edge and centered side to side. Use this level to place a tall fence and stopblock on your drill-press table. Clamp each and every block to the fence and stopblock. Meas-ure the true diameter of your axle pegs, then drill an axle-peg hole one-one/4″ deep in both ends.
Stage five. After you’ve positioned the wheels vertically, place the physique on a operate table that permits you to see it from the two sides without moving it.Set the entire body on the assembled blocks and wheels, then maneuver the wheels to center them horizontally in the wells. Now, alter the wheels on the opposite side to center them. Then make a pencil mark on the floorboard along a single edge of every single block. Flip the body upside down, and use a attempt square to scribe a perpendicular line at each pencil mark. Align the blocks with these lines. Center them from side to side, then glue and clamp them to the floorboard.
Phase one. Center the hood on the front of the floorboard so its back end is flush with the back edge of the cab posts. Make faint pencil marks to mark this place, then temporarily adhere the hood to the floorboard with double-faced tape. Drill and countersink four shank and pilot holes – two in front of the axle block, two behind it – by way of the bottom face. Eliminate the hood, peel off the tape, and set the hood aside for now.
Stage 2. Position the mailbox door in the back opening with its bottom edge resting on the bumper. Mark the four screw-hole areas for the mounting brackets with a short pencil. We found it needed to “drill” holes utilizing the #4 x 3/eight” screws themselves, which is not an sophisticated remedy. However, the mounting brackets on the door will conceal any tear-out.
Make the Roof, then Add the Coin Slot
Stage 1. Rip and crosscut the roof to dimension. Utilizing a 1/4″ roundover bit, rout the ends and then the edges. Lay out the coin slot the place proven on the Roof drawing. Employing a fence on your drill-press table, drill overlapping three/8″ holes to rough out the slot. File or scrollsaw the slot edges flat. Now, finish sand the roof.
Step 2. Center the roof on leading of the physique, then mark its location faintly on the underside. Apply glue to the leading edges of the body, position the roof, then gently clamp.
Step 3. To make the cab and door fillers, lower a three/eight” x 3/4″ x twelve” blank. Then crosscut a 31/two” extended piece for the cab filler trim it to fit snugly in between the prime front ends of the cab. Subsequent, lay out a five” radius arc on the bottom edge, centering it three/sixteen” from either finish. Sand the arc to form. Now, finish sand the cab filler, then glue and clamp it to the underside of the roof.
Step one. Apply a hardening oil finish to the truck, hood assembly, wheels and axle-peg heads. Wipe off the excess according to the manufacturer’s guidelines, then repeat. Following the second coat has dried overnight, apply a coat of paste wax to the exterior surfaces.
Phase two. Attach the floorboard employing flathead wood screws. Following, mount the door in its opening. Match every single wheel with an axle peg and washer, then drive the pegs into their holes in the axle blocks. Verify the action to make sure the wheels flip freely but never wobble.